Masurian Summer
The Masurian Lake District in north-eastern Poland is characterized by a large number of lakes covering an area of around 1,700 km², some of which are connected to each other via small canals.
Tourists here enjoy the relaxed environment in a rather sparsely populated area combined with the water sports and leisure opportunities on offer.
In many places there is boat and ship traffic for tourism purposes, while the abundance of fish invites anglers. On the other hand, there are also numerous dense virgin forests with native mammals and birds.
In June 2023 we will enjoy three wonderful weeks with a short tour through this wonderful area. We only spend the night on campsites, all of which fit into the respective landscape in style.
After around 1040km from home we reach our starting point in Torun and take a detour to Frombork before we approach Masuria.
First we stay at Lake Mamry and Niegocin in the northern part of Masuria and then take a detour outside to the Białowieża National Park on the border of Belarus.
We then conclude in Mikołajki and Mrągowo in the southern part of Masuria before returning to our starting point in Torun.
Toruń
With around 210,000 inhabitants, Toruń is one of the oldest and most beautiful cities in Poland. Its Gothic old town is not only a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but also the birthplace of the astronomer Nicholas Copernicus.
Located on the Vistula, there is a wonderful panorama on both sides of the river. To the north of the river is the old town surrounded by historic, mighty walls, south of the river is the train station and the Kępa Bazarowa nature reserve, beautifully located right on the water, with a great viewing platform of the old town opposite.
Two bridges connect the north and south halves of the city. On the eastern side, the newly built General Elżbieta Zawacka Bridge, over which the main traffic of road 91 passes, and on the western side, the Józef Piłsudski Bridge, which was destroyed and rebuilt several times in the past wars.
While in the past this was the central main artery with Street 15 between both sides of the Vistula, today it is another landmark of the city, especially with its history and architecture, through which we can easily reach the old town on foot.
Passing the Collegium Maximum Museum, directly behind the bridge we reach the entrance to the pedestrian passage on the right, which, in addition to numerous shopping opportunities and restaurants, has amazing historical buildings. The Church of the Holy Spirit, the Nicholas Copernicus Monument, the Artus Court of Toruń, the Old Town Square, the Leaning Tower of Toruń and the Baj Pomorski Theater are just a few of the numerous and worth seeing objects that are enjoyed by numerous visitors and school classes .
We set up at campsite number 33 “Tramp”, which is located directly at the nature reserve. The facility offers equally spacious, shaded and sunny places due to large tree cover on predominantly unplotted meadowland. Alternatively, renting small cabins or rooms is also possible here for tourists without a tent or camper.
The sanitary facilities are modernized and clean, and a restaurant located directly at the reception invites you to dine. The integrated tennis court is ideal for sporting activities. Alternatively, there is an outdoor swimming pool for young and old, which promises to cool off in the summer.
Our parking space fees for the team with 2 people and 2 dogs are around €20 per night for the team without electricity / €25 with electricity.
Frombork
About 260km further northeast we reach Frombork, in German "Frauenburg", a small town in the Masurian Warmia. With around 2,330 inhabitants, it is located not far from the border with Königsberg.
Copernicus spent most of his life here doing research and at times as a canon until his death. The gigantic cathedral is a huge museum of history and is surrounded by complexes such as
- the Radziejowski Tower with its Foucauldian pendulum to prove the earth's rotation from Copernicus' thesis of the heliocentric world view, including a viewing terrace with a view of the bell tower
- the Nikolaus Copernicus Museum with exhibitions on his life and work
- the famous west gate with access to the interior of the complex
- the Copernicus Tower, which is integrated into the wall of the fortress
- and the Cathedral of the Assumption and St. Andrew as the central heart of the complex.
Compared to the number of inhabitants, the complex appears oversized and dominates everything that happens in the area. It is impressive evidence of the past, on which much of our current knowledge is based.
Past a small supermarket we reach the harbor and beach of the adjacent lagoon. Clearly visible from here, the complex sits imposingly on a hill.
Maybe 2km away on the outskirts of town we set up camp at CampCity Camping Frombork. The complex is not heavily visited and offers a romantic flair on wild meadows, surrounded by large trees and bushes. A group of youth has just discreetly stayed in the adjacent wooden huts, otherwise we are here alone and enjoy the peace and quiet of the surroundings.
We notice more mosquitoes and horseflies at certain times of the day, but with good protective measures they can be controlled. The overall character of the facility leaves a rather rustic impression with simple solutions right down to the sanitary facilities. At around €20 per night without electricity for our team of two adults and two dogs, the campsite is relatively expensive. Certainly also due to the exposed location of the area.
Lake Mamry
We drive 160km east not far from the Russian border to Lake Mamry. The last few kilometers are on gravel roads to our destination north of the lake, Camping Cypel - Zwierzyniecki Róg - located on a peninsula far from inhabited areas.
The environment appears to be largely natural. Here, too, the Masurian romance cannot be overlooked, as walks along the lakeshore repeatedly reveal boat jetties alternating with reed areas and forests in the background.
Sailboats of various sizes dominate the water and invite you to relax and observe. While you can hear the gentle lapping of waves on the shore, the pleasant smell of the lake fills your nose. Not only we, but also our dogs feel right at home here.
The campsite is quite small. However, it not only offers spacious and unparceled parking spaces on a hill with meadow ground and a first-class view of the lake, but in addition to wooden huts directly on the water, it also offers a stylish beer garden-like bistro with a boat dock to offer sailors a welcome mooring point.
With our Ranger we can easily pull up our caravan thanks to all-wheel drive. If you arrive with a towing vehicle that is not a four-wheel drive vehicle, the campsite operator will have the vehicle set up with the help of a tractor.
Right next to our pitch there is a rustic campfire area where we can enjoy the obligatory stick barbecue of the young people in the evening.
The sanitary facilities are installed in a container, functional and clean. We paid around €15 per night for our team, two adults and two dogs, without electricity. A very reasonable price for what is offered.
Niegocin Lake
Just 44km further south we reach Camping Echo at Lake Niegocin. With direct access to the water, a very clean beach section, a barbecue hut and exemplary sanitary facilities, the complex rightly deserves a number of awards. The overnight price of over €35 per night including electricity is therefore justified for the overall package.
The directly neighboring town of Rydzewo is easily accessible on foot. With perhaps 350 inhabitants, the boat docks obviously play the main role for tourist traffic. Here we find the Marina Lester Club with the largest pier in Masuria, which can accommodate up to 40 watercraft of various sizes. The typical Masurian character of the place is underlined by very well-preserved historical buildings that impress us.
Białowieża
We take a short detour away from Masuria and drive 230km southeast to the Białowieża National Park, near the border of Belarus. Around 2,700 residents live here mainly from tourism and national park maintenance.
Here we come across a few observation towers from which we can observe the local surroundings of the park. A path over boardwalks leads for kilometers through the forest to the bison demonstration reserve.
The National Park Directorate is close to the city center. In addition to small stalls, we notice numerous soldiers and military vehicles who are obviously securing the border and keeping it closed due to Belarus' cooperation with the Russian invasion of Ukraine.
A little away from the city to the east we come across a historic facility with steam locomotives, historic wagons and a train. Together with the old water tower and the upscale restaurant integrated into the old train station building, we are transported back in time in style.
We have set up at the House of the Stork camping and guesthouse complex, a very well-maintained, old-growth garden area with lovingly redesigned barns, historic buildings and integrated, newly designed sanitary installations. A small house with the typical facilities of the post-war period serves as a museum that bears witness to the living conditions of the time.
We are seeing more and more stork nests in the town. Devices were installed on lampposts that obviously lure and invite the storks to build nests.
Mikolajki
It's back to Masuria. We take on the southern part and head towards Mikołajki. This place is different from many in Masuria because things are much wilder here. Not only is the boating here a bit more lively than elsewhere, but the busy promenade also looks more like a party mile. Impressive, because Mikołajki only has around 4,000 residents. On top of that, preparations are underway for the bike race, which will run through the city center and the promenade landscape. Celebrities are not excluded here...
Otherwise there is the opportunity to go on tour with an old pirate ship. The sailing ship itself is worth seeing.
We spend the night at Camping Wagabunda nr 2. The site is recommended by the ADAC, among others, and offers both sunny and shady spots under trees. The sanitary facilities are acceptable, the price of around €30 per night including electricity is certainly higher due to the exposed location.
Mrągowo
Our last stop is 16km further west near Mrągowo at the “Słoneczna Polana” Camping Gregor campsite. Located directly on Lake Probarskie, we are amazed, because at just 16km from the lively and noisy Mikołajki we find a very quiet and scenic section with a fantastic beach area.
The facility is relatively young and the operators are very active in offering their guests an undisturbed break. The parking spaces are largely unparceled and large enough to accommodate our team. The sanitary facilities are simple and in a very clean condition. The accommodation costs of around €25 per night without electricity include both pedal boats and paddle boats for hire.
A short trip to Mrągowo with its around 22,000 inhabitants invites you to take a walk along the water. The amphitheater on the opposite side of the lake is a real eye-catcher and has great importance in the Masurian surroundings.
For us this is the last stop on this tour. We will make a quick stopover in Toruń before we head back home.
